This week’s Mediahuis Irish regional newspapers’ column.
Michael Commane
They were the best days of the year, Wednesday, September 18 to the following Saturday.
A friend and I barged on the Grand Canal from Vicarstown in Co Laois to Rathangan in Co Kildare and back.
We travelled 49.6 kilometres. I’ve walked and cycled along stretches of both the Grand and Royal Canal but never before experienced anything like this.
Neither of us had navigated a barge. We hired it from Barrowline Cruisers. Orla and Philip showed us the routine and gave us all the necessary safety instructions.
Off we set. We quickly had to get accustomed to using the tiller as it’s counter intuitive, in that you move it left to go right. The Grand Canal is narrow, a momentary lack of concentration and you could easily find yourself in the muck and reeds on the bank. After two or three kilometres we decided we were expert mariners. The fear had worn off and all we could do was laugh.
Very quickly we realised we were in the midst of extraordinary beauty. Travelling at less than four kilometres an hour, yes, a snail’s pace, we were surrounded by green trees and fields, not a soul in sight. Incorrect, from time to time flocks of birds would appear.
On one occasion three ducks came out from the bank and cavorted with us before they decided to head back to their home base.
The mix of the overarching silence, the perfect beauty of the place and our slow speed made it an almost out of body experience.
Each of the three nights we parked up at a suitable spot. There was a great sense of adventure to that, tying up the barge, making sure the ropes were securely attached. The sleeping accommodation was fine, enough room for two.
It was three days of hilarious fun, laughter and messing. We went through a number of locks. Scary moments watching water gushing through the sluice gates and then being down in the bowels of the earth while in the lock, high walls on either side.
At Rathangan we had to turn the barge to head home. Not an easy operation, made more difficult by the low level of water in the canal. A few scary moments but we triumphed, thrilled with ourselves. Lucky too as we had the wind on our side.
On another occasion a road bridge had to be raised for us. Joe from Waterways Ireland opened and closed the locks and raised and lowered the road bridge. We phoned him ahead, usually about two hours before we would arrive. He could not have been more pleasant and efficient, and I’d say a great character too.
It was the holiday of a lifetime. Great fun, plenty of messing about. Yes, you need the sun and you need to be able to laugh and joke with your companion. We had both. I’m wondering, yet again, is the alternative lifestyle for me? Life on a canal barge?
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